La Maldicion Malvar
Madrid Highlands, Spain
Super-complex, deeply coloured, fleshy-textured release, with ripe nectarine, pear, apple and almond notes. It's skinsy, and there is some grip, but it's very fine and the wine is super clean and pure. It's a wine loaded with charisma, texture and freshness and is so easy to drink! It also gives us a little glimpse into the deep history of this part of Spain.
This idiosyncratic, pulpy, saline white is made from Spain's indigenous Malvar grape. The fruit is drawn from a tiny, 0.44-hectare plot of old, bush vines rooted in the chalky clay soils of Valdilecha in the Madrid mountains.
Organic/biodynamic cultivation, meagre yields and old school (very old school!) fermentation with skins and stalks for 50 days are the keys to this delicious, fascinating white. Aging that included crushed skins and stalks was the traditional way that Spanish farmers made their wines and this just works with Malvar. Following pressing, the maturation occurred in old 300-litre casks.